Need a little help

Discussion in 'Warbirds Deutsch' started by Odisseo, Jul 1, 2003.

  1. Odisseo

    Odisseo Well-Known Member

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    Hi everybody, i just bought a pilon racing glider wich has instructions only in German, since is 10 years i do not speack anymore german and here words are most technical terms I would ask if somebody of you could translate it in English.

    Thanks in advance for you'r help!

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Rapier

    Rapier Guest

    As easy as that!

    Hi Odi,
    used to be a model aircraft builder myself, so I know what I am talking about, when I inserted a few advices :)
    Here is the translation:

    Construction Mig-Merlin.
    The V-form of the wings is pre-cut, the reception notch for the V-form doubler is pre-cut.
    Support both wing halves at the wing tips as much so as to achieve the necessary V-form. (very careful at this point, otherwise the winghalves will have different angles of incident lateron)
    Place some slightly thickened epoxy at the joining points of the wing halves and in the notch of the V-form doubler.
    Press the doublers (which you pre-epoxy) into the notch. Now the wing halves are to be fixed in the predetermined V-form.
    Carefully wipe off the surplus epoxy form the sheeting. Cover the glued joint with scotch tape or plastic foil, the glued joint is to dry out now,
    Drill a hole 25 mm behind the nose from below, 12mm in diameter, up to and just before reaching the upper sheeting. Use the available dowel and glue it into the hole, let dry. Thereafter sand the dowel down to the sheeting. Drill a 4 mm hole into the dowelfor the nylon scew provided (I personally would drill the hole first before gluing the dowel into the wing :) just to make sure it fits correctly before I have to dig the dowel out of its glued position to correct for errors.)
    Drill the second hole for the wing fixture 130 mm from the nose and with 4 mm diameter. The provided enforcements are to be glued into the fuselage in the area of the forward and rearward wing-fixation points.
    Fix the wing to the fuselage (making sure the angle of incidence and the angle toward flight direction is correct :) and mark the drill positions. Now drill 5mm holes for the E-nuts through the fuselage and the enforcements. The E-nuts are to be glued to the enforcements.
    The gap caused by the V-form at the fuselage is to be filled with surplus wood on the left and the right side of the fuselage. Now insert and fix the two pushrods for the V-elevators in such a way that the hoses are extending below the elevators 1.5 cm before the elevators. For that you will have to drill 3 mm holes inclined and sideways into the fuselage. The rod-housing for the antenna is to be cut flush with the fuselage.
    A simple and effective possibility for fixation of the rods is provided by the foam pieces. After installation of the receiver and servos press the rods to the fuselage and fix them with foam pieces and instant glue. The movable parts of the rudders are to be cut off at 25 mm depth. The elevator halves will be glued from below at the V-doubler in an angle of 110°, the edges of the balsa parts adjoin below the v-doubler. The resulting edges are to be sanded down to achieve a plan joining part and an angle of incidence of 1.5° (EWD = in German ?Einstellwinkeldifferenz?, meaning fuselage line of reference is 0°, stabilizer should be set at 0° as well, wings AOI at 1.5°).
    After coverage of the whole airplane, the vertical stabilizer is to be screwed onto the fuselage, which is fortified at the joining points.
    The rudders can be activated by one servo. A better flight performance is achieved with two ?electronically mixed? servos.
    The ailerons will have to be cut off and encased by means of the parts provided and sanded down. Cut a small hole 74 mm behind the nose into the lower sheeting for the exit of the pushrods, at the same point drill a 10 mm hole into the fuselage for the exit of the pushrods. The provided balsa parts 10 mm are to be glued at the wingends and sanded down. The pushrods are to be inserted. The wing servos are to be fixed into their holes by means of balsa surplus, cover the wing with foil and connect the ailerons. To avoid using any lead ballast in the nose, join the wing and by means of the receiver fixation (abachi 8x10x12) make a sliding fixation of the receiver section, as to allow for centre of gravity adjustments. Fix the position of the receiver section now. The base of the receiver section is simultaneously acting as fix point for the hook for high start purposes.
    For the first flight all rudder deflections are to be set at 10 mm deflection either side, the centre of gravity should be 56 mm behind the nose of the wings. Control the deflections at the transmitter side and save the settings for later correction.
    If you want to use an e-motor (speed 400/permax 450) cut the nose cone at the marked position and insert the engine carrier provided.
    All parts were produced in Germany, every part is available as a single part with the exception of the wing which is only available as a whole set.
    We hope the model aircraft will give you as much fun as it did to us.


    Regards and always a pleasure to help
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 1, 2003
  3. Odisseo

    Odisseo Well-Known Member

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    Thanks a lot rapier :)
    Usually i do not follow at 100% instructions, i prefer use the materials i have wih the acquaintance I got with all the models i already build. Will send you some pix when model will be finished :)

    Thanks again :@prayer:
     
  4. Rapier

    Rapier Guest

    NP

    @ Odi

    I could not judge your experience in a/c model building, therefore I included some advice. Beg your pardon, if it was too much :)

    Those wing halves joints are the key factor to performance. I would build a jigg to make absolutly sure they are set at the same angle of incidence. In flight you would never see it, because it will be overcome by aileron deflection. That however cuts down on performance (not mentioning stall characteristics) quite a bit.

    Regards
     
  5. Odisseo

    Odisseo Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    Usually I take the pond thread (wich is used for weldings) and i use it for design the lower wing profile with attack border, i make 2 of them in wood and I put over the 2 wings, so they will have the exactly same incidence. (hard explain such things in english) :)

    P.S. if you like argue about RC models just send me a mail, it will be my pleasure to show you some models and know your opinion (vice versa too) :)